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April 30, 2009
Before thinking about getting a Guinea Pig it is important that you are prepared before you bring your Guinea Pig home. These small animals need a good amount of exercise, usually a couple of hours a day, so ensure you either have a large enough cage for them to roam around in, or have allocated an area in your house or outside where they can get some exercise. Guinea Pigs also like to hide, so if possible, buy a cage or hutch which has areas specifically designed for hiding. If you cannot get a cage like this, then a standard one will do the job and you can use cardboard boxes and tubes for them.
Guinea pigs need a fresh supply of water at all times and a constant supply of fresh hay and vegetables. Cereal based pellets and pet food can also be given. Ensure the bottom of the cage is covered with soft hay or specific Guinea Pig cage padding, as anything too rough, such as woodchip, can injure them.
Guinea Pigs are very timid creatures at first and their natural instinct is to run away from things they are scared of, and they may appear to be scared of almost everything at first. Handle them gently and always supervise a child when they are handling them. When you first let them out, they may try to run away. Just leave them to it for a few days until they get used to their environment. Try not to take them out of their cages and put them back in a lot of times, as this can also distress them.
Ensure their cages are cleaned thoroughly at least once a week. Guinea Pigs can get very sick if left in a dirty cage. Groom them and clip their nails regularly and also check their teeth. Sometimes teeth will need to be clipped at a later age. Always ensure you take your pet to a vet who is used to dealing with Guinea Pigs.
Once they get used to their new home and their new owners, your Guinea Pig will become a lovable, cuddly and loyal pet.
April 28, 2009
All dogs have a distinctive smell and it would be impossible to completely get rid of this, however when a dog’s smell becomes unpleasant and overpowering then it becomes a problem and needs to be addressed. The best approach is to find the cause of the problem, rather than just try and cover it up.
Medical factors should be eliminated first. Most common for causing smells being infections in the ears or on the skin. Ensure dogs ears are cleaned gently but thoroughly and regularly. Skin irritations could be an allergic reaction so check the dog shampoo you have been using or the detergent you have been washing his or her blanket and towels in. Dental problems can also cause extremely bad odours. It is difficult to clean some dog’s teeth, however there are plenty of dog teeth cleaning chews and products available to use. The most common cause of bad smells in a dog is the impact of anal glands. Anal glands are used for marking territory, but if they become impacted can cause very strong bad odours. A course of antibiotics is often needed to rectify this problem. For all suspected medical issues it is vital to get a veterinary surgeon’s advice.
Flatulence is also a very common problem in dogs and this can often produce a very unpleasant smell. In most cases this can be rectified by monitoring their diet. There may be a certain type of food, whether that is a flavour or brand, that has a worse effect than another. Try changing their food or reducing certain elements of their diet. There are so many varieties of dog pet food available, as well as making them some homemade meals that a solution should be able to be found fairly easily.
To prevent bad smells coming from your dog, ensure they are cared for and groomed properly. They should be bathed regularly in specific mild dog shampoo and their coat brushed regularly. Ensure regular vet checks and keep all fleas, worming and injections up to date. Dental products should be used weekly at a minimum. Also make sure that their bedding, towels and any other fabrics or surfaces they come into contact with regularly are also kept clean or washed on a regular basis.
April 27, 2009
Domestic rabbits that are cared for by their human owners are very comfortable with human contact. However, on becoming a mum, your rabbit is likely to become very territorial and protective of their babies. On the lead up to the birth, ensure the hutch is warm enough with soft hay, to make the doe as comfortable as possible; you will not get much chance once the babies are born. Rabbits are extremely good mothers and although may seem reliant on human care, they are more than capable of raising their babies.
Handling the babies should be avoided as much as possible during their first weeks of life, however checking the hutch is essential. Once the doe has given birth, give her a treat to momentarily distract her, as it is important to check the litter. Gently lift the fur to check for dead babies, rabbits give birth to an average of 8 babies at once, however it is likely that some will be stillborn or not survive long. The hay in the hutch also needs to be cleared, particularly if wet or dirty. Dead babies and damp hay can leave the other rabbits open to infection, illness and in particularly flies.
In the first week or two, mother rabbit should be kept fairly warm and given fresh water daily. Good, soft, fresh hay should also be supplied along with additional food such as fresh vegetables. The babies will feed from their mother for ten to fourteen days usually, and once the babies begin to wean away from their mother, additional vegetable pet supplies should be stopped as the babies will become ill if they eat this. Once the babies begin to wander around on their own and feed themselves, they can be put into their own cages. It is a good idea to move them gradually, rather than take all babies away from their mother at once.
Fostering of rabbits is also very successful as they respond very well to it. If you have more than one doe and one has more babies than the other, then you can take several away to give to the other doe. This makes both rabbits happy and also eases the responsibility for the mother.
April 24, 2009
It may seem a simple task to introduce another cat to the family, and although your intentions may be good, your existing cat will not see it like that at first. As lovable as cats can be, they are also very territorial and bossy and anything that threatens their position is seen as the enemy.
It is easier to introduce cats of a similar age, as this will not only make it easier for the owner in terms of feeding times and pet food choice, but it will also start both cats off on as even a level as possible. Cats like to mark their homes so it is a good idea to introduce a new cat slowly. Try and keep the cats separate for the first few days or even weeks, gradually letting the new cat into the home with the other cat, whilst under your supervision. Have a separate litter tray and feeding bowl in a designated room for your new cat, until he or she starts to feel comfortable.
A good time to introduce them to each other can be at feeding time, as this promotes a happy atmosphere and will also mean the cats are pre-occupied with something else and will associate each other with pleasant experiences. Ensure they have separate bowls which are kept quite far away from each other.
Cats are playful creatures so encouraging any interaction between the two cats is also a good idea. Simple cardboard boxes are effective, as are balls and string. If the cats can play together then this should bring them closer.
Expect some resentment at first, along with possible fighting and hissing. This is to be expected but they will soon tire of this. As an owner, try not to cuddle or stroke each cat too much in front of the other, as you do not want to portray having favourites as this will make one cat feel left out and one cat too cocky.
The most important thing is time. Your cats will eventually become friends, quite often extremely close and begin to sleep near each other and even wash each other. Be patient and watch them closely and they will soon be inseparable.
April 22, 2009
Aside from the medication which is given by your veterinary doctor, as dog owners, people do have a responsibility to give their dog simple forms of medication. These are usually in the form of oral medicines or drops on their coat. As with all animals, it is impossible to explain to them that what you are doing is good for them, and most dogs will fight to avoid being given medication.
For drops, such as flea products, it is best to place these either at the back of their neck or above their tail, as they cannot reach around to lick the medication off. The person who is closest to the dog, and who the dog trusts the most is usually the best person to do this. Try to place the drops when your dog is relaxed, so sat curled up or being brushed or combed. This will calm them and if you are quick enough, they will not even notice you have done this.
Oral medication is a little trickier. The obvious way is to hide it in food. If you can disguise it this way then this is the easiest. Ensure pills are crushed up thoroughly. Depending on how cunning your dog is, there is a chance that all the food will be gone but the tablet remaining. If it is liquid then your dog may notice that it smells different and refuse to eat it. If this is the case, or if the tablet or capsule needs to be taken whole, then there are several options. The first is to hide it in a one-off piece off food, like soft treats or food your dog likes such as a small piece of meat or even toast. The other way is to give your dog the tablet and encourage him or her to swallow by gently stroking their throat. Once the dog has taken the tablet, reward him or her with a treat and a pat on the head to tell them they have been good.
Never force medication on a dog or be too rough with them, as once you associate a bad experience with medication you will have a recurring problem. The more comfortable and normal you make it for your dog, the easier it will become.
April 19, 2009
In the wild rabbits eat a vast range of different foods. This includes grass, leaves, bark, weeds, fruit, crops etc. Of course rabbits are herbivores and have become very good at digesting different types of fiber. They are very good at getting rid of things that they can’t digest.
Luckily there are lots of rabbit food products on the market today which will provide your rabbit with all the nutrients they will need. Rabbits require fairly high levels of fiber in their diet, in order to aid digestion. They will also appreciate fresh vegetables along with other specialist rabbit treats. Ideally rabbits should be fed twice daily, with fresh hay available at all times. You should also ensure clean drinking water in available at all times too.
In terms of rabbit food, there are basically two different types available. This includes complete mixtures and pellets. Mixtures contain various ingredients including Flaked peas, grass pellets, oats, biscuits, extruded locust beans, wheat, whole wheat, herbs etc. These products provide your rabbit with different textures and flavours which can make meal times more interesting for them. There are many rabbit mixtures on the market from brands such as Chudley’s, Supreme, My super pet and more besides. However rabbits can sometimes be very fussy and will occasional just eat a handful of the ingredients and leave the rest. This can lead to nutrient deficiencies.
This can be combated by the use of rabbit pellets. These products contain all the nutrients your rabbit will need, however they are made into pellet form with each pellet being identical. This prevents selective feeding. There are various rabbit pellets on the market from manufacturers such as Allen & Page and Burgess.
These products are usually available to buy from any good pet shop or online pet store.
April 17, 2009
Keeping poultry can be very rewarding, but it does require care and attention. Sickness is a major issue in chickens and hens and if one gets ill the sickness can spread extremely quickly to the entire brood. Pet supplies can be bought to deal with some problems but there are many factors involved in keeping poultry healthy; however a healthy coop is one of the most important.
It is important that your coop is safe and secure and meets safety standards. Other animals are a danger to poultry, either because they attack them or pass on disease, so it is vital that no other animals are allowed in the coop or can accidentally get into the coop. Most people keep quite a number of chickens or hens and the larger the quantity in the brood, the more mess they are going to create.
Coops should be cleaned regularly and you should be on constant look out for droppings and mess. The design of the coop should be so that there are specific areas to catch droppings, which can then be easily removed for cleaning. The material used for the coop should not soak up water and harbour bacteria but needs to be easily washable and easy to clean. The coop should also have good ventilation so as to let air into the coop, but be cautious of parasites and put some form of pest control in place.
April 13, 2009
When you have loved and cared for a dog throughout their entire life, it is easy to get into a routine and keep their feeding patterns the same. However, it is important to remember that dogs are similar to humans in the way that their bodies change as they get older.
One factor is that their digestive systems become more delicate and cannot always tolerate the type of food they have been used to eating, or in fact the quantity. Although dogs are carnivores by nature, they may struggle to digest a high quantity of meat, therefore try to include slightly more vegetable based food. This will also add fibre to their diet and it is a good idea to monitor your dog’s bowel movements. If they appear to be less frequent then add more fibre based pet food and look to split their meals into smaller portions but at several intervals throughout the day.
If your elderly dog is not eating his or her pet food, or struggling in particular with their dry food, then check their mouth. Elderly dogs are prone to tooth decay and gum disease, however regular veterinary visits should keep their mouths healthy.
Obesity is also a key point to watch out for. An elderly dog will become less active and therefore burn off less calories and energy. If you believe your dog is gaining weight choose leaner food and encourage some gentle exercise. It is wise to ask your veterinary surgeon’s advice when changing your dog’s diet for this reason.
Equally, an elderly dog can go off their food and lose weight. An elderly dog should be weighed more frequently, once a month if possible. If your dog is losing weight then get them medically checked immediately to ensure their loss of appetite is not down to disease or illness.
Overall, your dog’s life can be prolonged with a little extra care. Choose food that is specifically designed for elderly dogs or add dog supplements to their diet.
April 12, 2009
It is true that dogs grow so quickly. Before you know it they are fully grown and start to slow down a little. It is quite easy to recognise when your dog begins to show signs of ageing. It is true that different breeds grow at different rates. As a guide, the larger the dog, the faster they mature. A senior dog will have slightly decreased energy levels. Your dog may sleep more than they used to. Another sign of ageing can be joint problems and even arthritis. A senior dog, particularly larger breeds will probably begin to show signs of stiff joints. If your dog suffers prolonged periods of stiff joints and has trouble walking then you should consult your vet.
However if your dog suffers from occasional stiff joints then you can buy pet products such as ‘Growell joint aid for dogs’ or ‘Pedigree joint care’. These products contain specific nutrients which help to ease to condition of joint discomfort.
It is true that as your dog grows older, the less exercise they will need. However your dog still needs some form of exercise, as exercise can help prevent obesity and joint problems. A couple of walks every week should be adequate to provide benefits, but to also avoid making them excessively tired. Exercise can also improve mood and improve digestion.
As mentioned earlier, senior dogs require different levels of nutrients compared to adult dogs. Luckily there are numerous senior dog foods on the market which cater for such dogs. These products typically contain lower levels of calories than regular adult food. This ensures you senior dog doesn’t become over-weight.
Looking after your senior dog and knowing how their bodies’ change can help to ensure they live out their ‘golden years’ happy and pain free.
April 10, 2009
It is true that horses and ponies have different nutritional needs. As a rule ponies use and store energy more efficiently, while it can be difficult to maintain weight with some horses. In reality ponies actually need more calories per measurement of bodyweight than horses. However some of the traditional breeds of ponies common to this country have evolved to survive on very little food. This means they can survive on very little for stretches of time, if required.
It is thought the reasons behind this include the fact that the capacity of a ponies gut may be greater than that of a horse. Horses usually carry greater amounts of muscle mass. Moreover ponies digest fibre better than horses; this enables ponies to survive just on forage.
Furthermore ponies are usually not as energetic as horses, which means they will use fewer calories. However this means that ponies are more likely to be overweight or obese than horses. This also increases the risk of laminitis and other conditions.
If you need further advice you can call any of the horse feed manufacturers or else talk to someone at your local equestrian / pet store.
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